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Should You Buy a Used Luxury Watch?
It's Just Thousands of Dollars – What Could Go Wrong?

Photo from The Real Real
Luxury watches are a standout fashion accessory in almost every environment. From their timeless styling cues to their reputation for quality and craftsmanship these pieces command, a high-end watch is frequently a material target for the wealthy and wealthy-ambitious.
From elegant pieces to rugged utility ones, many brands offer high-end watches that maximize form, function, or a combination of both.
However, almost every luxury watch comes off the shelf with a steep price.
But what about purchasing a used luxury timepiece?
Secondhand luxury watches are plentiful in the watch market, with many listed at reputable shops and auction houses.
Though their condition may vary, these timepieces often trade at a heavy discount to their original retail price – barring some exceptional standouts that have skyrocketed in value.
But if you find the right secondhand luxury watch, should you buy it?
Assuming you find a piece you love and can afford, you should weigh several considerations before purchasing.
A critical component of luxury watch ownership is maintenance. All watches should be serviced occasionally to ensure optimal performance and accurate timekeeping, regardless of their manufacturer. Luxury pieces may demand additional attention and investment, however, to ensure the performance and quality fitting of a high-end timepiece.
A poorly maintained watch may present issues down the road, much like a poorly maintained car or truck. If a watch has not received the proper care, it may lose accuracy or fail to function entirely. Any lubricants used to reduce friction between moving parts will likely break down and dry out, potentially damaging the inner components.
Services should occur every few years. A complete service often includes disassembling, cleaning, inspecting, oiling, and adjusting the watch, although it can require more if wear and tear necessitates additional maintenance.
Even if you purchase a watch that receives regular service, you should plan to continue that trend during your ownership. It may seem unnecessary, but continued care will almost certainly pay dividends by preventing unexpected problems or rapid deterioration.
That said, a watch with a documented history will likely fetch a few more dollars than one that hasn’t been treated so proactively. You may expect to pay a premium for a well-maintained timepiece over an ill-kept one, and you may be justified in expecting a premium when you sell a serviced watch.
This phenomenon is one of many reasons why price should be considered when evaluating a used timepiece. If the market for a watch is $10,000 and you find one for $5,000, you should proceed with extensive caution regarding the piece’s authenticity and functionality. This concern is particularly true for online purchases – after all, there’s usually a difference between a good deal and too good of a deal.
In these cases, opting to have the watch authenticated and inspected by a reputable third party – e.g. visiting an authorized Rolex jewelry store to look over a secondhand Rolex before transacting – is a wise course of action.
These experts may be able to identify flaws that an unaware buyer may not see or have considered, potentially saving you time and money in the long haul.
Authentication paperwork often accompanies a certain caliber of timepieces, making it easier to differentiate pieces worth further consideration from others. Though not critical for proving the piece's origin, these documents contain information unique to their associated watch and provide peace of mind to buyers that their piece is authentic.
Flaws may not need a third-party inspection to present themselves.
Scratched bracelets or cases, cracked crystals, or entirely non-functional pieces pop up in the market frequently, so looking over the watch (ideally with your own eyes) before you buy it is often a wise course of action.
If and when you reach the point of purchasing your used luxury timepiece, there is another essential consideration to weigh before buying: resale value.
A luxury watch can be a great investment. It can also be a terrible one. If you care about earning a positive return on your purchase, doing additional research may better inform your decision. We published a brief guide to help navigate the murky waters of timepiece investing.
Buying a luxury timepiece can earn you a hefty return if you find the right buyer. However, these pieces can depreciate by a significant sum, too, making it easy to lose a meaningful portion of your purchase price.
A luxury watch – new or used – is frequently a good conversation starter, and many people tend to associate a certain level of wealth or status with those who wear one.
So before you spend thousands of unnecessary dollars on a brand-new luxury piece, be sure to see what the secondhand market has in stock for you.